Saturday, October 25, 2008

A new Sourdough starter feeding strategy


So I've been experimenting recently with a slight modification to my sourdough starter mixture. I've blogged about my sourdough starter several times before and if anything I think this is just another argument to the axiom that sometimes there is no right answer.

I noticed that my standard:
Save 1/4 cup starter, mix with 1 cup water & 1 cup AP flour
Seemed to be a bit 'soupy' which after rising for 8-16 hours seemed to be well mixed, but not quite as active as I am used to seeing.

My alteration is by trying:
Save 1/4 cup starter, mix with 3/4 cup water & 1 cup AP flour
This makes a thicker starter, more the consistency of play-doh. I've noticed that the ticker mixture rises better (easily doubling or sometimes tripling), plus it holds its shape more.

This thicker starter adds a richer more developed taste to my bread, which is always a welcome addition!


-Matt the weekend baker

Saturday, October 11, 2008

An update to a revolutionary recipe


The original Jim Lahey recipe for no-kneed bread published by Mark Bittman published in November 2006 (covered in this post) kicked off the revolution. Home bakers (like me) everywhere were inspired to give it a try.

Now Mark Bittman has revisited the technique and has talked with Jim Lahey about publishing an updated version of the recipe that started it all. Here is a link to the story:

No-Knead Bread: Not Making Itself Yet, but a Lot Quicker

Jim Lahey didn't approve of toying with the ratios and I think I agree.

The basic idea is that the more yeast you throw in, the shorter the rise-time. This is fairly basic "baking 101", but for the experienced baker the longer the rise the more developed the flavor of the loaf.

Of course there's always a trade-off when baking good bread vs baking quick bread. I've even blogged about this in the past. If you want a good quick bread then choose a recipe that's suited for it (and heavily flavored already). The whole point of fresh baked bread (french, sourdough or wheat) is to really TASTE the nutty flavor of the flower.

-Matt the weekend baker

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Four Basic Ingredients


At a dinner the other night a friend of mine lamented that I was stuck on baking. It does seem strange that a recipe with just FOUR basic ingredients could be so interesting and so challenging.

* Flour
* Water
* Yeast
* Salt

That's really all there is to it. Bread is about as simple as you can get, yet it's permutations are almost endless. Thinking it's simple is like comparing wine to grape juice.

Bread to me has a fascinating history (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bread) and has been baked by bakers for thousands of years. One of my favorite semi-historical reference is from the HBO mini-series "Rome" when one of the main characters (Titus) says "good bread this". I laughed at that moment because the bread the character was eating was essentially the same bread I was eating.

Four simple ingredients, two of which can be improvised (salt & yeast). Ten Billion combinations (ok a bit of a hyperbole there) and only a few hundred (or a few thousand) chances to try to get it right. Sounds fun to me!


-Matt the Weekend Baker



Side Note:
As proof that I am not stuck on bread, my culinary skills include (but are not limited to):
* Baked Eggs
* Omelets
* Crepes
* Eggs Benedict
* Sweet Rolls
* Dutch Babies (German Pancakes)
* Grilled Steaks
* Grilled Vegetables
* Grilled Salmon
* Cookies
* Gary's Salsa

Saturday, September 27, 2008

The value of bread



An interesting thought occurred to me the other day... how much is good bread worth? We buy sandwich bread for $3.99 at the grocery store, yet here is a rough breakdown of how much home-made bread costs:



















































































IngredientMeasurePurchase WeightPurchase CostCost per GramPer Loaf Cost
Salt15737$1.00$0.0014 $0.02
Buckwheat Flour10907$3.28$0.0036 $0.04
All-Purpose Flour504536$5.79$0.0013 $0.06
White Whole Weat Flour502268$5.49$0.0024 $0.12
Bread Flour3402268$5.49$0.0024 $0.82
Water3253780$1.00$0.0003 $0.09
Sourdough Flour (AP)
504536$5.79$0.0013 $0.06
Sourdough Water503780$1.00$0.0003 $0.01





$1.23



So the costs of the ingredients is clearly less than the store-bought bread, but what about the actual baking? My Kennmore 96413 is rated at 10 - 13.5 kW. Running at 450 degrees I'm going to assume I'm using 13 kW of juice, though the insulation on this oven is incredibly efficient so I don't think it's pulling the full load for my entire bake cycle. Power in our area goes for 7 - 9 cents per kWh, so at the worst case scenario I'm probably using $0.18 of electricty, bringing the grand total up to $1.41.

I don't drink coffee, but I'm fairly sure that's less than your average cup of joe.

-Matt the weekend baker

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Sourdough Starter Troubles (Chlorine & Chloramine)


So to my great surprise the sourdough starter I have been faithfully using for over a year has recently gone 'flat'. I will feed it per my usual schedule and it does rise, but it doesn't "bounce" to it's normal doubling.

As any good baker will know, a starter will show vigorous activity within the first hour and should double within 4-8 hours depending on the ratio of starter to water/flour it was fed.

I had a real mystery on my hands so I decided to try and figure out what happened. After a few experiments I narrowed the suspects down to temperature & water. I was able to eliminate the temperature variable by trying a cultivation in a stable tempature area with no sunlight (to minimize variations), so that just left water. I had been using the same tap water for over a year, but obviously something changed.

Our tap water is moderately hard, but normally calcium does not affect sourdough starters. Though my hypothesis was that maybe our local water municipality changed the percentage of chlorine in the water.

I tested this theory out by cultivating a new starter from some preserved starter I had saved for an emergency (more on that in another post). I cultivated this new starter with only bottled water. It was a bit more expensive than tap water but after a week it seemed to be showing strong results.

To double-verify my results I did one feeding of the new starter with tap water, and it had disastrous results. It killed a good portion of the starter.

While I was pleased that my hypothesis was confirmed I was still baffled at why tap water would suddenly become so hostile. It turns out that the water municipality had changed from Chlorine to Chloramine (which is a derivative, and more stable).

A quick check on Google confirmed this: http://www.sourdoughhome.com/startingastarter.html

Sourdough by it's nature is a hardy bacteria that can survive all sorts of different environments, but when it encounters chemicals that are anti-bacterial in nature it makes it hard to grow the way it should.

It looks like it's time to start experimenting with dechlorination, or I'll just buy bottled water by the jug.

All this trouble hasn't stopped me from baking 2-3 loaves per weekend, even with a semi-flat stater. Nothing can come between a baker and his bread.

-Matt the weekend baker.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Measuring Ingredients

When you bake a few loaves you will start to realize the variables involved with baking. Time, temperature, humidity, weight, density, yeast concentration, water impurities, salt and water %.

One of the biggest variables in creating a good loaf is the percentage of water to flour. This percentage should be in the 65%-85% range.

As one of my favorite publications (Cooks Illustrated) published: Almost No-Knead Bread which is only the recipe, but the accompanying article described that going closer to the 65% water percentage actually helps with the no-knead recipes.

I find the best way to maintain this percentage is to weigh my ingredients vs measuring them. The best example of this is demonstrated in the picture below.



There are two cups of flour that look identical, but one is compacted and weighs 135 grams and the other weighs 180 grams. The 45 gram difference comes from the density of the flour.

I recommend weighing your ingredients for the most accurate baking results. If you don't have a scale handy, at least aerate your flour before use!

-Matt the Weekend Baker

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Sourdough Starters

A good friend asked me why my current sourdough isn't a patch on the first sourdough loaf I baked years ago. I explained it was because my original starter was a local wild variety, which did taste good but seemed to be lacking in its ability to double a loaf effectively.

Sourdough yeast isn't something you can just go down to your local supermarket and buy, it's something you have to grow and cultivate. That seems to scare most people away from giving it a try.

The internet has introduced a whole range of options for the hobbyist baker. If you simply Google "Sourdough Starter" you will see a wide range of options.

From the free Oregon Trail Sourdough

To the world traveling collection.

The King Arthur Flour variety.

I picked up mine from www.sourdoughbreads.com.



If you are adventurous and want to try your own here are a few sites to explore:
http://www.breadtopia.com/make-your-own-sourdough-starter/
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/233
A short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cusjbAtGzvg

Remember - once you have a sourdough starter you must feed it to keep it alive. You can hibernate it in your refrigerator, but you have to take it out a few days ahead of when you want to use it again.

-Matt the Weekend Baker